Remote Amazon

It had been a long flight to Rio de Janeiro and more than once I cursed my travel agent's name for all the layovers. Now though, all that would be forgotten. The trip which had been planned for two years was actually happening. The fact that Brazil is not a small country had been driven home a thousand miles ago and, other than the horrid international flight, I will give credit to the travel agent. After Rio there had been significant effort to get here; the flight to Sao Luis, Belem by truck, followed by boat charter for the actual goal of the trip - cruising up the Amazon.

We had been on the boat for several weeks now and were deep in the rainforest. The captain was experienced at taking tourists up river and made good efforts to take the boat close to one bank or another for photo ops or to point out things of interest. God it was beautiful. It seemed that everything was some shade of green. As we had traveled the river narrowed in some places and the canopy was unbroken from one side of the river to the other. Yeah, this was what it was all about. The captain said there was a Yanomani village near here so to be on the lookout. He also said that they probably already knew we were in the area and if we appeared to pose no threat they might show themselves. I prepped my camera equipment in hopes of such an encounter.

Several hours past and I found myself beginning to doze in the bow when the captain whistled softly. I opened my eyes and glanced around. On the left bank there was a young Yanomani watching us. He had a bowl cut and multiple sticks thrust through his cheeks and nose. My pre-trip research said this meant he was at least teenage; having participated in the rites of manhood. I couldn't help, but think this was a far cry from my own Bar Mitzvah and unconciously touched my own cheek. Interestingly, the young man did the same. The captain took this as a good sign and moved the boat in closer to shore. I was only five feet away from the Indian. It was a beautiful moment. I smiled and he smiled back. Slowly raising my camera I took a quick couple of pictures. Feeling I owed him something I mimed eating and pointed at him. He grinned and in perfect English replied, "I'd rather have some cigarettes if you've got any."